Winter Wild Swimming Guidance in Lochs and Rivers
For many of us, inland wild swimming doesn’t stop when the temperature drops—it simply changes. Winter swimming can be deeply
Into the highlands we go and off to Rannoch for a weekend of play and swims. It didn’t start in the best way as all adventures by road always hinder on how many other people decide this is the weekend to head north. Just to our group’s delight it was also the Blair Castle horse trials, so gridlock was the start of the weekend but gave the group the chance to take the scenic route. Winding along the stunning drive through Glen Cochill to Aberfeldy. Down towards Kinloch Rannoch along the east bank of the loch to the Bridge of Gaur guest house which is tagged as the ‘middle of nowhere’, which was very much the case but nowhere is rather stunning! This is where the group will be staying for the weekend and no sooner had Lynda arrived others started arriving and settling into their rooms.
After getting acquainted it was time for the group’s first swim at Loch Rannoch, off a lovely sandy beach. The loch was shallow, so they did feel they could have probably walked to the 19th century folly (for those that don’t know it’s a small tower like a lonely castle turret). Swims with objects and points of interests or islands always draw swimmers in a little longer or farther than they initially tend to go, is it intrigue or is some earthy island energy that draws us in? It’s worth noting here that it may sound obvious, but things in the water can be further away than they seem and by setting out around a castle or to see an island in a loch, the summer is slowly passing so if you get cold before you get there probably an idea to abandon the swim and turn around, rather than push on to reach the spot. Especially as the water cools, the excitement can lure us in to potentially dangerous circumstances…. But anyway, back to the swim weekend. For the expedition to the folly, the group’s host Heather joined them too before warming up back at the guest house with a scrumptious 3 course meal! All tucked up for the evening before the early rise the next day.
After a scrummy breakfast our group headed to the Rannoch train station, even passing two positively dippable lochs on route, can’t believe I’ve even typed that! But they arrived at the train station a couple of minutes early. I know what you’re thinking have people not travelled enough just to be there already? Well you know Lynda would never take an unnecessary detour. This trip was all to visit the highest train station in the UK on the Corrour Estate. Stepping off the train is like opening the door to another very beautiful world, Scottish Highlands at its very best! From here our crew of swimmers had a 30 minute walk to Loch Ossian. The mist hung with a light breeze keeping the midges at bay for the majority of the walk there, and it’s not until it dropped that our swimmers discovered they could walk a little quicker to escape the descending midges.
Arriving at the spot there’s a lovely picnic table to leave kit and some nifty little steps into the water and flat paving underneath the water for the first few steps. Once in you can see all the way down the glen with little loch islands creating a meandering art piece for the eyes. No sooner are you admiring the view the unspeakable happened, and don’t get me wrong rainy swims are some of the most magical around but that’s because you’re wet already you’re a part of it. This was not that day, as our group exited the water the heavens opened and the rain descended. A couple seeking refuge in the laundry room of the little youth hostel close by whilst other folks decided to chance the change robe shuffle in the rain. No sooner had they dried off it was time to get back to the train station.
Hovering in the train station café to warm up just in time as the next train to Fort William pulled in to a platform full of day trippers. All the people exiting the train bee lining straight towards the swimmers dry spot in the café to stock up before heading off to maybe climb a Munroe, walk around the loch or just head into the hills.
Once back in Rannoch our group headed straight to the Rannoch Café (there is a theme here isn’t there) where they had lunch and some indulged in delicious cranachan cake. For those not aware this may be the Queen of all Scottish desserts and not too dissimilar from an Eton mess that was originally created to celebrate harvest. Cream, raspberries, oats and a wee dram of Whisky.
Then our swimmers headed for a short walk along the path which leads to Glencoe, crossing the railway line aiming for Loch Laidon where it just touches into Rannoch Moor. If you know Glencoe, this is the loch you can see from the Glencoe ski lift.
Lynda and the group had considered a third swim at the Bridge of Gaur, but the river was racing under the bridge so Lynda made the decision to return to the guest house and see how everyone was doing on arrival back at base. There was an option for another dook but our adventurers were quietly contented and favoured some chill time before the evening meal, which was of course another culinary delight! All thanks to Heather and her able assistant Ed.
Sunday was a great day of adventure, it had rained heavily through the night which had turned into a light rain in the morning. Weather cleared enough for us to head into the great unknown, all be it a touch more conscious of the water conditions they may encounter. Our hosts, always looking to go above and beyond had managed to get permission for us to travel across the estate on a weather-beaten road, through the hills and heather across a number of burns to Loch Ericht. Of course, our host Heather joined us as she’d gained the permission for our group to attend, she hadn’t been there either and fancied some adventure.
This was of special interest to Lynda as she feels it’s full of mystique, but also probably down to the intriguing nature as she always passes this loch on her way to Aviemore. Always passing and never managing a swim, but today was the day Lynda would be able to pull back the curtain and see if it held on to some of that forbidden magic.
On arrival the loch was completely wild but after walking across some squelchy heather and onto the rocky bank they arrived at the entry spot. A little alcove of water off the main loch and protected from the wind that had been rushing round the glen, definitely giving our group the windswept and interesting look. It was perfectly formed and described as ‘simply amazing’. Shallow, but by far the coldest water of the weekend.
The drive back to base was full of energy and a real buzz of excitement. Discussing the weekends activities, favourite swims and that subtle contentment that comes alongside being in the outdoors. That tired but fulfilled kind of wonderful. No sooner were our group chatting about swims, it was time for good byes and heading back to our various homes.
Image Jenny Evans
For many of us, inland wild swimming doesn’t stop when the temperature drops—it simply changes. Winter swimming can be deeply
I reached out to the pals I swim with as the magic of water resonates with so many people and
I asked my swim buddy to share with me his experience of cold water dipping and what I received was