Swimming With Seals around the Archipelago

The Farne Islands in Northumberland, a mysterious archipelago that attracts some of the most incredible coastal wildlife. Year round people venture to the isles to spot a seal, a puffin or maybe even some gannets but our venture was a snorkel safari amongst friends to see what we could see.

The first challenge of the day was not near the water, but actually the harbour car park. When arriving midday on a Sunday you do expect a few people, but the unavoidable mouthing to passers by “are you leaving” is less adventure and more anxiety inducing. Making you clock watch and wonder whether a parking space will become available before the boat leaves.

Luckily it did and we loaded ourselves up with change robes, bags, binos and tow floats to meander down to Seahouses harbour. Many similar people looking for groups for tours to the isles, although it seems you can spot a swimmer in a crowd quite easily even amongst divers and tourists. Once assembled our group trundled down to our boat for the afternoon and tried to pick our seats, you could see the cogs turning against comfort and getting a prime wildlife spotting spot. As swimmers got settled Lynda started an introduction to her and what we were expecting today, introducing Becca her right-hand woman for lifeguarding later on. This is also the point where the “give wildlife space” chat begins. We’re entering their territory most of the time, but the Farnes are a haven for wildlife and you’re never quite sure what you may come across. The most important part for us all is to experience wildlife in a natural setting, but to let them approach, to give them the choice. In no way do we chase, follow or even land within 100m of wildlife. Starting spreading this message early on, also helps it sink in, as you can expect everyone can get excited so it’s crucial this message is noted throughout the trip.

Then it was time for the journey out into the north sea and towards the farnes. A mere speck in the distance at this point as you leave the harbour walls, the boat starting to rock as it leaves the sheltering groins. The sun has started to beam and whip up the sea to a rollercoaster esque undulation. Talk of getting into wetsuits already on everyone’s mind, knowing full well it will take some a few moments longer than usual and didn’t want to miss out on any water time. Some opting for wetsuits due to the potential for staying in longer and also the whispers of jellyfish.

Clambering into swimwear at the best of times is hard although trying to slip into one whilst on a wavey boat ride can be quite the challenge, whilst also trying to ensure your garments don’t escape to Davy Jones’ locker. A few gannets were spotted swooping and diving, everyone eyes fixed on waves and shallow reefs causing your mind to think “dolphin?”, “whale?”… no it’s another rock. As we passed the initial islands of the archipelago though we saw a group of shags as if they were bouncers to the wildlife beyond.

Our group arrived at their afternoon swimming spot, with one young seal deciding to play in the chevron waves we were leaving behind the boat. Once again reiterating, the best way to experience any wildlife is to float, stay still, have a bob about and see whether anything approaches you, another reason why many opted for a neoprene skin. With little movement needed you can stay much more comfortable than you would in skins.

Swimmers paired up two by two and were prepped for the lift into the north sea, which looked essentially like a stair lift on the back of the boat with quite a julty entry. We had rather experienced swimmers with us on this day, but for extra safety Lynda made sure to be in first to assist with the immediate plunge to neck deep of sea water.

As soon as our snorkelers were in there were heads checking us out, checking on what weird floaty things had entered the sea with their weird goggles and underwater cameras. I am of course talking about seals, some perched on rocks, others deciding to have a look at us from a far. Not directly making eye contact with them some opting to swim in the alternative direction to have a little pootle around the spot. Others deciding to hang out near the boat. There was quite a pull going through the water so Lynda and Becca were keeping an eye on the floating swimmers to ensure the wonder of wildlife spotting didn’t distract from being pulled out to sea.

Some of the younger seals decided to come and have a swim and check some people out, swimming nearly 10metres underneath us, swirling amongst the seaweed and kelp. Some people were primed on waiting it out, others opted for a little swim under the nearby lighthouse, again ensuring not to approach any wildlife resting on rocks.

This swim is always a magical one, but this one was just sublime, the swirling of the water and watching seals dance around beneath you as if you were nothing more than passing seaweed.

Then no sooner were our group in, it was time to pull ourselves out of the water and head back to the shores where the chippy tea was waiting surrounded by pestering starlings.

An end to a perfect swim adventure.